Glycolic acid is a popular skincare ingredient known for its exfoliating properties. As a member of the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family, glycolic acid helps to remove dead skin cells, reveal smoother skin, and promote a youthful glow. It’s commonly found in toners, serums, masks, and other skincare products. However, while it offers several benefits, it’s essential to use it correctly to avoid unwanted side effects and skin damage.
In this article, we’ll explore what you should avoid when using glycolic acid to ensure you get the most out of it without compromising your skin’s health. Whether you’re new to glycolic acid or have been using it for a while, understanding its proper use is key to achieving the best results.
What Is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is the smallest and most widely used AHA, derived from sugar cane. It penetrates the skin effectively and exfoliates the top layer of dead skin cells. This process helps to improve the skin’s texture, reduce hyperpigmentation, minimize fine lines, and encourage collagen production.
Glycolic acid works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, making it easier for the body to shed them. This leaves your skin feeling smoother and looking more radiant. Because of its effectiveness, it’s commonly used in products aimed at treating acne, sun damage, and signs of aging.
While glycolic acid is beneficial, it’s important to remember that, like any active ingredient, it should be used with care to avoid skin irritation and other issues.
What Are the Benefits of Glycolic Acid?
Before we dive into what to avoid, let’s quickly recap the benefits of glycolic acid. Regular use of glycolic acid can:
- Exfoliate dead skin cells: It removes the build-up of dead skin on the surface, which helps your skin look fresh and renewed.
- Improve skin texture: It can smooth out rough patches and make your skin feel softer.
- Reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation: Glycolic acid can fade dark spots, acne scars, and sun damage.
- Combat fine lines and wrinkles: Regular use can encourage collagen production, which helps firm the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
- Promote a youthful glow: With consistent use, your skin will have a more even tone and brighter appearance.
What to Avoid When Using Glycolic Acid?
While glycolic acid can work wonders for your skin, misuse can lead to irritation, sensitivity, and other issues. Below, we’ll list common mistakes and things you should avoid when incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.
1. Avoid Overusing Glycolic Acid
Using glycolic acid too frequently can cause irritation, redness, and peeling. Over-exfoliating the skin can damage its protective barrier, leaving it vulnerable to environmental stressors and harmful bacteria.
How much glycolic acid is too much? It depends on your skin type, but most experts recommend starting with products containing a concentration of 5-10% glycolic acid and using them 2-3 times per week. You can increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
If your skin starts to feel irritated or sensitive, cut back on the use of glycolic acid until your skin recovers. Over-exfoliation can also lead to dryness and sensitivity, so it’s crucial to balance glycolic acid with hydrating and soothing skincare ingredients.
2. Don’t Combine Glycolic Acid With Other Harsh Actives
When using glycolic acid, avoid combining it with other strong exfoliants or active ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide. Mixing too many actives can overwhelm your skin, causing excessive irritation or dryness.
- Retinoids: Both glycolic acid and retinoids speed up skin cell turnover, and using them together can result in peeling, dryness, or redness.
- Vitamin C: Vitamin C is acidic and can lower the pH of your skin. Using it with glycolic acid can increase irritation or make both ingredients less effective.
- Benzoyl Peroxide: This acne treatment can also dry out your skin. When paired with glycolic acid, the combination can be too harsh for sensitive skin.
It’s best to alternate between these ingredients. For example, you could use glycolic acid in your evening routine and vitamin C or retinoids in the morning or on alternate nights.
3. Avoid Sun Exposure Without Protection
Glycolic acid exfoliates the skin and can make it more sensitive to sunlight. Exposure to UV rays can cause sunburn and increase the risk of skin damage. Therefore, it’s essential to apply sunscreen every day, especially when using glycolic acid.
Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. Reapply it every two hours when you’re outdoors to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.
If you’re using glycolic acid, you may want to limit your sun exposure, especially during peak hours (from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.). If possible, try to stay indoors or wear protective clothing like hats and sunglasses to shield your skin from the sun.
4. Don’t Use Glycolic Acid on Broken or Irritated Skin
Using glycolic acid on broken, irritated, or inflamed skin can exacerbate the damage and lead to even more irritation. If your skin is sunburned, has open cuts, or is dealing with an active breakout, it’s best to avoid applying glycolic acid until your skin heals.
Additionally, if you have conditions like eczema or rosacea, glycolic acid may cause flare-ups. Always patch-test a small amount of product before applying it to your entire face to ensure it doesn’t cause irritation or an allergic reaction.
5. Avoid Using High Concentrations Without Expert Advice
Glycolic acid is available in various concentrations, ranging from 5% to as high as 70%. While lower concentrations are effective for most people, higher concentrations are typically used in professional treatments or under the guidance of a dermatologist.
Using products with too high a concentration of glycolic acid can lead to serious irritation, burns, or chemical peels. If you’re interested in higher concentrations, it’s best to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine the appropriate strength for your skin type.
6. Don’t Skip Moisturizing
Exfoliation can leave the skin feeling dry and tight, so it’s essential to hydrate afterward. Glycolic acid helps to remove the outer layer of dead skin cells, but it can also strip moisture from your skin. After using glycolic acid, always apply a hydrating moisturizer to replenish your skin and maintain its natural barrier.
Look for a moisturizer that contains ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, or glycerin, which help lock in moisture and protect the skin’s outer layer. Applying a moisturizer will not only soothe your skin but also prevent excessive dryness and peeling.
7. Avoid Using Glycolic Acid in the Same Routine as Harsh Scrubs
Physical exfoliants like scrubs and brushes can be too abrasive when used with glycolic acid. Both exfoliate the skin, but in different ways. The combined physical and chemical exfoliation may irritate your skin, leading to redness, inflammation, or microtears.
If you want to use a physical scrub, it’s better to do so on days when you’re not using glycolic acid. This way, you avoid over-exfoliating and putting your skin at risk for damage.
8. Don’t Skip a Patch Test
Before introducing a new glycolic acid product into your routine, always perform a patch test to check for any allergic reactions. Apply a small amount of the product to a discrete area, like behind your ear or on the inside of your wrist, and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs.
If you experience redness, swelling, or itching, discontinue use immediately. Patch testing is particularly important for individuals with sensitive skin or those new to glycolic acid.
9. Avoid Using Glycolic Acid Around the Eyes
The skin around your eyes is thinner and more sensitive than the rest of your face. Using glycolic acid near your eyes can lead to irritation, dryness, and even chemical burns if the product gets too close to your eyes.
If you’re looking to target fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes, look for products formulated specifically for the delicate eye area. Many eye creams are designed to provide gentle exfoliation without causing harm to this sensitive skin.
10. Don’t Use Glycolic Acid If You’re Pregnant or Breastfeeding Without Consulting a Doctor
While glycolic acid is generally considered safe, it’s always best to check with your doctor before using it during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Though there is limited evidence suggesting that glycolic acid may be harmful, some prefer to avoid AHAs during pregnancy as a precaution.
Always err on the side of caution and consult with a healthcare professional if you’re unsure.
Conclusion
Glycolic acid is a powerful exfoliant that can greatly improve the appearance and texture of your skin. However, using it the wrong way can lead to irritation, sensitivity, and other unwanted side effects. To get the best results from glycolic acid, avoid overuse, be cautious with other active ingredients, always protect your skin from the sun, and keep your skin moisturized.
If you follow these guidelines and use glycolic acid responsibly, it can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine, leaving you with smoother, brighter, and healthier-looking skin. Remember that skincare is a journey, and what works for one person may not work for another. Pay attention to how your skin responds, and make adjustments as needed to find the right balance for your unique skin needs.
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